Lead Free Auto Body Solder on Patch Panel Seam
I wanted to show how to use auto body solder or lead, this is the lead free solder. This is not as hard to learn as some people think. This is good to know if you …
Muscle Car Lover
Car Info
I wanted to show how to use auto body solder or lead, this is the lead free solder. This is not as hard to learn as some people think. This is good to know if you …
Completely pointless. A poor substitute for a product that was never very good.
Well done
Awesome I work in a chemotherapy center…and we need more Costumers.. please keep doing it.😘😘😘😘
Thanks for all the comments. The car has been painted for five years and all is looking good.
It's a great tutorial.. but I've noticed that the flux(which is an acid) has caused a corrosion problem, under most lead patches along with patch edge blistering ( a visual outline of the patch under the paint finish) …this is on factory and body shop repairs…just a heads up to those wanting to try this.
K have a problem I live in Canada having hell of a time with a 73 challenger I want to lead it but seems it's not legal I need to know where to get this lead free and how is it?
Hillarious I've never seen someone lead like this. Don't know how you could be doing this for 45 years and still not figure it out.
Thank you for the instruction!
what exactly is tinning butter and what is it made from?
Nice job.
it is hard to get pure lead in some area of the uk ,but church roofs seem to have plenty of it…only joking
Slowlearn))) – if you watched the video you would know that he welded the patch panel before he applied solder))
I've tried lead free solder and found it inferior to 70/30 lead. Lead flows better and is much easier to file and shape. It also requires less heat to flow. As a result it takes half the time to finish with no warpage. I know there is danger with the fead solder, but there are precautions you can take that minimizes the risk.
good job, but you didnt have to do all this work if you would make your patch panel overlap a quarter panel and making a quarter inch lip on old panel after that you just weld it in one nice line
Excellent job creating this video, thank you for the tutorial, you make it look easy, but it takes lots of practice to be as good as you are.
Hi from oz.lead wiping is an art,you sure got that panel hot.
My bet is you used bondo to finish it off.
did you put anything on you paddle to keep it from sticking to the flux?
Is the metalconditioner like zinc-phospate?
Thanks for posting this video. I have a 54 Chevy pickup that has quite a few pin holes on the roof that need patching. I was thinking about using this method. What would you say is the largest hole that I should attempt to solder without requiring welding new steel? There is a dime sized hole where there used to be a cb antenna. Do I need to back the smaller holes with a piece of brass while soldering to not allow the solder to fall through the hole? Thanks for the info in advance
The plumbing solder would not have the correct metals in it for auto body. You can by the correct solder at:
johnsonmfg
for about $30.00 a pound. look at there website and call them.
Have done my first body work and used Eastwood Lead Free Solder. Am very pleased with the results. Only problem is the $60 a pound cost. I found rolls of "lead free" solder in plumbing dept of Lowes at $30 a pound. I realize the small dia solder from Lowes will not be as easy to work with as the 1/4" dia sticks from Eastwood but think I can twist two strips together to get acceptable size "stick"
Is the plumbing solder OK to substitute as long as it is solid not flux core?
It is a palm sander
Johnson mfg co. you can look them up on line.
This video is awesome mate! It's inspired me to use the solder and patch technique to complete the work on my '65 Mustang roof! Where did you purchase your supplies?
Do you think I could solder in small patch panels with plumber's solder? (too poor to weld it, want a real metal repair)
All I can really find is this sort of surface stuff. I couldn't even make my solder stick to steel, but it wasn't wire-wheeled (had millslag on it) and I think I was overheating it…. but I couldn't get it to flow with capillary action the way I wanted….
That is hard to doo. I am a panelbeater so I know. I can only do flat surface 🙁
I have not tried the map gas but I think it could be faster.
Wouldn't it go faster if you used MAP Gas?
I used 80 grit. Thanks
Great video. When you were using the mouse sander what grade of paper did you use?
Glad you like the video. I hope to do another one on a camaro sail panel seam.